UTMB Recce and pre-TDS thoughts

Well, what do you do when someone you’ve never met asks on a Facebook group whether anyone was up for running the UTMB course as a training / recce session over 4 days?

You say yes, of course.

So a few weeks later, that decision resulted in me meeting Caroline at the Brussels Airline check in desk in Edinburgh at 0430 on a Saturday morning.

Warning: I haven’t been able to condense 4 day’s awesome running into a short post…

The synopsis is: brutal trail, 4 great days’ running, great new friends, generally all-round amazing! Enjoy the photos…

With just 2 weeks to go until the start of the TDS (my ‘A’ race of the year, and what I’ve been working towards since October last year), this was to be a great chance to see how hard I can push myself in the high mountains and to get some last minute training in.

After a fairly uneventful flight, via the construction site that is Brussels airport, we arrived in Geneva and made our way to the baggage carousel; only to find that our bags weren’t there.

There was a long queue at the lost luggage desk, and that wasn’t a good sign… we were promised that our bags would be delivered that evening… but the bags didn’t turn up.

Over hearty portions of tartiflette that evening, we decided that we’d have to buy new running kit on Sunday (as we were due to start running on Monday) if our bags still hadn’t turned up: cue an unsuccessful Supermarket Sweep style dash around the Chamonix sports stores.

We needed more time to purchase replacement running gear (the UTMB route is a tough one, climbing to over 2,500m, so the right kit is essential) and, even with some borrowed kit from new friend Giles, we took the decision to delay starting the route until Tuesday.

Fortunately our bags arrived late on Monday and, having made arrangements to delay my return to the UK after the recce, Caroline and I were eagerly waiting where the start line will be in a couple of weeks to start running at 0730.

Pre-start selfie

The route takes us through the centre of Chamonix before joining a forest path out to Les Houches. Carrie is lucky enough to be spending the whole summer out in Chamonix, so we met up with her outside her flat there.

After a stiff 800m climb up through a ski resort, we were soon running down a grassy piste and into St-Gervais-Les-Bains. We got a little bit lost here, unable to find the path that our GPS watches were directing us towards, but made it down into the town and found a tap to replenish our water.

I realised that I hadn’t eaten anything so far, but stupidly did nothing about it; a decision that would come to haunt me later in the day.

The trail then follows a river up towards Les Contamines.

Now, you’d think that a path alongside a river would be fairly gentle, but this is the Alps… and most “rivers” here would be called a waterfall back in the UK… so it was steep!

Coke and some fruit in Les Contamines, spurred us on towards the 2,320m Col du Bonhomme. This wasn’t enough to counter the lack of food and water earlier in the day and, combined with the searing afternoon sun, I started to bonk quite badly.

Even so, the Col arrived and this signalled the last few metres of ascent for the day to the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme and our Refuge for the night.

Looking up towards the Col du Bonhomme

Relaxing outside the refuge after a tough day

Sunset views from the Refuge

Day 1: 45.9km, 3,087m climbing.

This refuge had the best Crocs of the trip (no shoes allowed inside!), and so after a great night’s sleep (my first experience of an alpine Refuge) we started the day with a long 900m descent into Les Chapieux – a benefit of finishing the previous day up high, and a great way to get the legs warmed up (and a great way to start celebrating my 35^th birthday)!

Looking back towards the Refuge

The route then turns back up the valley towards the Mont Blanc massif, eventually climbing to the Col de la Seine. My lungs and legs were burning as we reached the 2,516m col, which also marked our departure from France and our first steps on Italian soil.

First impressions though, were that France and Italy look exactly the same…….

Welcome to Italy selfie

Looking back into France

Some France, some Italy

 A fast descent down to Rifugio Elizabetta followed, encouraged by the thought of my first Italian coffee (the Italians do coffee so much better than anyone else!).

We missed a turning somewhere along the way down, staying on the main TMB trail rather than the slightly different race route; this also meant that we missed the 200m climb up to the Col des Pyramides Calcaires (and, at 2,563m, the highest point of the route) – I didn’t hear anyone complaining though!

We met Giles (he of the borrowed kit – thanks, btw!) here with the group of hikers that he was leading.

Fuelled by Italian caffeine, we carried on down and before climbing back up to the Arete du Mont-Favre. We then faced a quad-busting, almost continuous 1,200m descent down into Courmayeur.

I raced off, keen to see how my legs fared on a long descent, but stopped at a junction on the trail to regroup with the others. I’d started to get a little worried about how long I’d been waiting when Carrie appeared around the corner with Caroline hobbling behind her – she’d missed her footing on a wooden step and badly sprained her ankle.

Fortunately, we were only about 200m above Courmayeur and, after easing down the remainder of the descent, we went in search of a pharmacy for something for Caroline’s ankle.

Unfortunately, we arrived in the town right in the middle of siesta (I didn’t even know that was an Italian ‘thing’!) so had to make do with some fruit and a Coke to refuel us – and a bag of frozen peas to try and reduce the swelling on Caroline’s ankle.

It’s a little bit worrying that this UTMB descent is actually the first climb for the TDS route… I’m going to have to start fast from Courmayeur to avoid getting caught behind too many other runners, but not so fast that I burn myself out! What a start to a race!

Feeling fit enough to continue, we made the final 700m climb up to the Rifugio Bertone and our beds for the night.

It’d been another long, tough day and a couple of celebratory birthday beers ensured we were all sound asleep before too late.

How to carry your frozen veg on a long run

Day 2: 39.1km, 2,306m climbing.

The next day started with probably the best section of trail I’ve ever run on. Flowy and contouring around past Rifugio Bonatti, the running was incredible with amazing views of the sun-kissed summit of Mont Blanc and the numerous glaciers and peaks of the massif.

We quickly dropped into Val Ferret before our last Italian coffee stop at Rifugio Elena and the climb up to the 2,537m Grand Col Ferret, as this col marked our arrival in Switzerland.

Mt Blanc from Rif Bertone

Looking back along Val Ferret 

Feeling the altitude crossing into Switzerland

Team selfie heading into Switzerland. Photobombed by a random hiker.

A speedy descent ensued – with a couple of American walkers commenting that we were “hauling ass” and “a little bit crazy”. Smiles all round, especially as Caroline’s Rocktaped ankle seemed to be holding up well.

There was more amazing running to be had until our Swiss ice cream stop in La Fouly (Swiss ice cream tastes the same as any other ice cream, but just costs twice as much…). We followed the valley until Praz de Fort, where some buildings nestled in a col above us indicated the town of Champex du Lac – our resting point for the day.

The first signs of Champed up in the col

Although we’d had bigger climbs, the 500m up to Champex was probably the toughest of the whole course – never exceeding steep but never shallow enough to be able to run, it seemed to go on forever; and I had a nice hug with the “Welcome to Champex” sign when it finally appeared.

We found a pleasant Pension (with a not so pleasant owner) on the far side of the town to stay for the night – this also had the benefit of reducing the final day’s efforts by about 2km. Everyone was starting to feel the strain of our exertion, so dinner conversation was limited as pizzas were devoured and we were all soon in our beds.

Day 3: 43.7km, 1,966m climbing.

The next morning we awoke to the sound of rain outside. Over breakfast (which for once on the trip didn’t just involve bread and jam) the weather couldn’t dampen out spirits, with everyone keen to get back to Chamonix.

Today was also Carrie’s birthday, so all the more reason to be cheerful!

The final section of the UTMB route from Champex is essentially 3 big climbs followed by 3 descents, with very little flat; so there was nothing for it but to throw on our waterproofs and get moving.

The road through Champex soo turned into a fire road and then into hardpacked single track as we climbed towards Bovine. The rain had stopped and we were treated to some amazing cloud formations with a partial inversion.

At some point early on Carrie went over on her ankle, so both ladies were now taking it easy to ensure they didn’t do any further damage before their respective upcoming races.

From Bovine, the trail then drops down through wooded trails into the pleasant town of Trient.

Over snacks to refuel ourselves, Carrie announced that she was only going to run as far as the next town (Vallorcine, from where she could get the train home). We’re still not sure though whether it was a move to protect her injured ankle, or in response to the ominous looking clouds and claps of thunder ;-)

After another long climb, the trail hugs the side of the mountain before a quick drop towards the ski lifts of Vallorcine. This was where we crossed back into France, but you wouldn’t have known it unless you were looking at the map.

We met a group of mountain bikers part way down the descent; they were faffing with maps and were kind enough to let us pass. I was fully expecting to have a bike hot on my heels further down the trails, but it appeared that I can run down a hill faster than them as we never saw them again.

We sat out a brief rain shower in a café in Vallorcine while refuelling with more Cokes and some haribo (inside the café was apparently full, but we were offered seats under cover outside… whether the café was actually full or whether the staff took offence to my 4 day old running top is still open to debate).

As Carrie headed for the train, Caroline and I continued on. We were soon climbing towards the Col des Montets, the only section of the UTMB trail that I knew having been abandoned there to run home last year.

From the Col, you can see the trail zig zag up the route’s final climb to the Tete aux Vents.

Keen to see how much fitter I am than last year I put my head down and sped up the climb, surprising a family of walkers as I ran up the hill past them. I’m pleased to say that on one Strava segement for this climb my time this year was 10 minutes, compared to 14 for the same segment last year; giving me great confidence for the race next week.

When the building at La Flegere, finally came into view, we knew we were finally on the home straight with Chamonix a short 900m below us.

The rain had started to get heavier as we passed the beautiful chalet La Floria, but with just 20 minutes left until the end of the run it wasn’t even worth stopping to put jackets on.

So, eventually Chamonix arrived and after following the race route’s victory lap of the town centre, Caroline and I arrived back outside the church where we’d started this adventure 4 long days previously.

Finish line selfie

Day 4: 44.7km, 2,613m climbing.

 So that was that. We’d run the UTMB (well, most of it…).

Time for a shower, some clean clothes (it felt strange not to be in running kit) and then to MBC for a few birthday drinks with Carrie.

My immediate thoughts post run were that it was a tough course, really tough. But I’m feeling strong both climbing and descending, so I’m looking forward to the TDS next week with some confidence of a good performance.

I’m also looking for a 3 point qualifying race before the end of the year, so I can have a shot at racing the UTMB next year…

I've got some times in my head for the TDS. They're pretty ambitious, so I'm not going to tempt fate by discussing what they are. The main aim for next week is to finish and get my prized gilet, a good time is secondary.

There's something in the Water(shed)....

I agreed a while ago to help Elspeth with her Watershed Adventure this summer, 680 miles and 44 Munros along the imaginary dividing line where rainfall decides whether to head West into the Atlantic or East to the North Sea.

With having the summer off work, I had the ideal opportunity to combine a number of things; such as helping Elspeth out but also getting some valuable training in before the TDS. So I picked a 4 day period starting on the 10^th day of the Adventure that coincided with the first Munro of the trip and arranged to meet Elspeth in Glasgow for the start.

When I arrived, I was informed that Elspeth's running partner had decided to run a different route that day (and in fact from then on, he set off on his own separate adventure allowing Elspeth to continue alone).

I made a couple of changes to my own schedule, which allowed me to accompany Elspeth for a total of 11 days' running in 3 stints (I had to nip home for some camping gear after the first stint, and then had a race to run after the second stint...)

I could write tomes about the incredible and humbling experience it was to run with Elspeth for those 11 days, but I won't.

I have far too many amazing memories from the run, that a few words would not do them justice:

Suffice to say that I'm in awe... the Watershed has, to date, raised over £7,000 for the charity Funding Neuro... and Elspeth finished the run on 15th August, reaching her goal at Duncansby Head with a smile on her face all the time (well, except for what I'll just refer to as "the Glencoe incident"...)

Elspeth's fundraising page is here, if anyone reading is feeling generous. Or before 30th September, you can vote for her charity to receive £10,000 in a Mountain Warehouse competition.

They say a picture speaks a thousand words, so I'll shut up and here's a link to some photos

A Devil-ishly great run

My prep for an ultra normally (well as much as you can have a ‘normal’ from only 5 previous races) involves building the training to a crescendo and then having a 2 week easy taper, to ensure the legs are fresh for the race.

My prep for the Devil was different; I’d run around 220km in the preceding 10 days with Elspeth on her Watershed Adventure (more on that in another post and at www.watershedscotland.com)… so not ideal.

I’d already pre-ordered the hoodie for this race, so that was my motivation for running. If I didn’t finish the race, I’d have a hoodie that I couldn’t wear!

So after just making the 0400 bus from Fort William, we were on our way to the start at Tyndrum.

It was great seeing a mix of old and new faces milling around the Green Welly café at registration; some folk recognised me from the Watershed, so it was clear that word of Elspeth’s exploits was getting around.

The usual question of aims for the race came up and, with little thought, I decided on the following:

• Main aim – to finish… so I can wear my hoodie
• Good time – anything under 8h30m
• Great time – anything under 7h30m

 At exactly 0600 (according to his brand spanking new race clock!) race director we set off up the hill and away from Tyndrum.

I was having a race-within-a-race with someone for who’d be the first of us to Bridge of Orchy; after just 51 minutes, I won – but I was convinced that I’d gone off far too fast as I wasn’t planning on being there until about 65 mins.

Bridge of Orchy – 10km. 0h51m. 25^th place.

I was feeling surprisingly great at this point; better than I’ve ever felt during a run.

Whether it was the Watershed training method… or the Tailwind energy drink I was trialling… I wasn’t sure, but I decided to keep the pace up and see what happened.

Rannoch Moor is normally one of my least favourite parts of the run as it’s a long steady ascent that just seems to sap the strength from your legs. It didn’t help that I’d spent the preceding few days zig-zagging through the bog of the Moor.

This morning, with the sounds of the latest Above and Beyond podcast thumping through my headphones, the sun broke through the clouds and I couldn’t have felt better. I was running strongly and a massive grin spread across my face.

Glencoe ski centre came much quicker than expected, along with the contents of my drop bag that I was looking forward to.

A guy in a hoodie with a beard grabbed my water bottle and started to refill it:

“Shit, you’re Paul Giblin” I said

“I know” said he “here’s your water”

(Paul’s won the last 3 WHW races and holds the record for that race, he was also joined at Glencoe by many of the rest of the Team GB ultra runners)

Glencoe – 28 km. 2h27m. 18^th place.

I chased a number of folk out of Glencoe, and passed Caroline Mckay (first lady) approaching Kingshouse.

Going up the Devil’s Staircase my legs still felt strong (in spite of the preceding week’s 12,000m of ascent!) and I passed a few more folk.

The sight of Fiona Rennie and Pauline (?) in fancy dress at the top of the Staircase was a welcome one (thanks for the jelly beans ladies!)… time to open up my legs and enjoy a fast descent down into Kinlochleven.

I didn’t see anyone else on the descent, and I started to question whether I was actually still in the race, and if so what position I was in.

Kinlochleven arrived about an hour before I’d anticipated being there, to my shock! A quick chat with the fabulous volunteers there let me know that there were only about 10 folk in front of me and that I should be able to catch the guy in front fairly soon.

Kinlochleven – 44km. 4h09m. 11^th place.

I was onto new territory now, having never run this section of the WHW before; so I was running blind and to feel.

Well, I still felt amazing… power hiking up the climb from KLL and even running some sections.

The Lairig Mor is renowned for its exposure to the elements, and for it’s spiky jagged rocks to hurt your feet (just to give you something to moan about even if the weather’s nice!).

All the runners at this end of the pack (it’s an unusual experience for me to be this far forward) were pretty spread out; I only saw, and passed, one other runner on the whole Mor.

Even the light drizzle couldn’t dampen my spirits, as my legs still felt great and Above and Beyond was still keeping me massively entertained.

It’s a long drag across the Mor though and the Lundavra checkpoint seemed to take forever to arrive. But it did arrive, and I was greeted by Alexa who told me I was in 10^th and to get my arse in gear down to Fort William.

I checked my watch, and was shocked to see that I was on course for a great time.

Lundavra – 57km. 5h29m. 10^th place.

On the climb out of Lundavra, I spotted another runner and chased him down; passing him at the top of the ascent. I don’t think he was expecting to see anyone else as he nearly tripped over as he heard me approaching (sorry about that!).

After a fun descent through the trees, a wee climb up on the fire road, and I had the next runner in my sights.

I was staring incessantly at my watch too as, in the back of my mind, a sub 6h30m finish was possible… I was astounded!

I managed to close the 500m gap on him by the time we reached the Braveheart carpark. Turning left up another climb (the final sting in the Devil’s tail), the guy in front saw me and kicked.

I tried to follow and was able to hold him but not close the gap; I waved at him to let him know that the position was his and I wasn’t going to race him – we both kept running strongly to the finish, now only racing ourselves and our watches.

The finishing archway and the blaring music were soon upon me, and I’d finished my best run ever (and I mean EVER!).

Finish, Fort William – 68km. 6h34m. 9^th place.

So the 6h30m finish had slipped away from me, but I’d still finished faster than I could ever have hoped for.

I’m putting a lot of my performance down to the training on the Watershed (long, slow, tough days out with plenty of climbing) and Tailwind (I didn’t eat anything solid throughout the entire race, but always felt full and energised).

Thanks to race director John Duncan, and everyone else who volunteered at the event to make what was a truly memorable racing weekend.

I need to reflect on exactly what went well, in the hope of repeating it in 3 ½ weeks at the TDS.

But for now, 2 days’ rest before re-joining Elpeth for my final support stint on the Watershed.